What? Go to La Défense, on the other side of the Seine, in the western suburbs, to discover, contemplate recent or major works of creators who have entered art history, never! Numquam dicere numquam! So, take the metro and arrive a few minutes from the Arc de Triomphe, at the end of line 1, at the beginning of another world. What happens at La Défense – entire business districts composed of around sixty towers, architectural gestures and défis since the 1960s, housing (nearly 50,000 inhabitants), and welcoming students (70,000) – is it something other than transactions and optimizations? Yes and furthermore yes.
Everywhere there are pause buttons, artistic proposals that nourish life, embellish it, lead to reflection. The works are often immense, from Calder to Miró, from Venet to Moretti, not forgetting the “little ones,” Bertholon or Lilian Bourgeat and his oversized bench. A new momentum initiated by the public establishment Paris La Défense is leading the site towards an intense “reartification,” towards a long decarbonization operation that is inseparable from a new enhancement of existing works.
La Défense is found at La Défense. The Défense of Paris is the name of a sculpture by Louis-Ernest Barrias (1841-1905) inaugurated in 1883. It pays tribute to the soldiers who left from the current location of La Défense to counter the Prussians in 1871 and their desire to conquer Paris. The sculpture is at, in the sacred axis Louvre-Saint-Germain-en-Laye, where kings resided before the unique choice of Versailles. The arch, signed by Johan Otto von Spreckelsen, is an immense open cube so that the axis can continue its ascent. The film “L’inconnu de la Grande Arche” by Stéphane Demoustier seizes the fabulous destinies of the architect and his realization.
At La Défense, it is first recommended to wander. Beaten by time, wind, rain, air flowing and galloping, the strength of the works sometimes bends but does not break. Always in shape, the very tall Pouce by César (12 meters) has become the meeting place for thumb twiddlers, scratching the sky, the ventilation shafts magnificently hold the draped works on them, including the joyful streaks of Moretti who lived in La Défense. The Cube Sphère and its golden flounces by Cyril Lancelin continue to contrast with the nearby towers with their rounded shapes and gray or blue glass.
The geometric serpent by Bernar Venet twists on itself into two indeterminate lines swallowed by a sad environment. Phew, its case is being restored, just like the emblematic Araignée by Calder which has lost its once flamboyant red. The gardens being installed on the slabs will allow Shelomo Selinger’s bench-sculptures to play their role under a plethora of trees. The plunge into La Défense? Easy. The pun comes from François Morellet, author of the work bearing that name. Composed of steel bars, they seem to be diving into the slab, emerging from it.
Under the horizon, Hall of Columns, at the foot of the Grande Arche. Curators: Lauranne Germond and Sara Dufour (COAL), until April 26. Zoo Art Show 4, Place de la Défense, near the Cnit, until June 28, zooartshow.com, parisladefense.com/fr.
